Help
Knitting questions, answered.
Everything from gauge to blocking. Can't find what you need? Email us.
Care
- How do I wash a hand-knit?
- Hand wash cool with wool-safe soap, press out water in a towel, then lay flat to dry. Never wring or hang.
- How do I block my finished knit?
- Soak, gently squeeze, then pin to measurements on a flat surface. Blocking evens out stitches and is what makes hand-knits look professional.
Getting started
- I'm new to knitting — where should I start?
- Look for patterns marked Beginner. They use simple stitches, fewer techniques, and forgiving yarn weights so your first project actually finishes.
- How do I download my pattern after buying?
- You'll get an email with a download link right after checkout. The link stays active for 30 days and works on any device.
Reading patterns
- What does "gauge" mean and why does it matter?
- Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit in a 10×10 cm swatch. It's the single most important thing for fit — always knit a swatch before starting a garment.
- What does k2tog, ssk, yo mean?
- k2tog = knit two together (a right-leaning decrease). ssk = slip, slip, knit (a left-leaning decrease). yo = yarn over (a small eyelet/increase). Every pattern includes a full abbreviation key.
Sizing & fit
- How do I pick my size?
- Measure your bust, then choose the size whose finished measurement gives you the ease you want (positive ease = roomy, zero ease = fitted, negative ease = clingy).
- Can I modify the length?
- Most garments can be lengthened or shortened before shaping. Each pattern flags where it's safe to adjust.
Yarn & needles
- Can I substitute the yarn?
- Yes — match the yarn weight and knit a gauge swatch with your substitute. Fibre changes drape: wool blooms, cotton stays crisp, alpaca grows.
- How much yarn do I need?
- Each pattern lists exact yardage per size. Always buy one extra skein from the same dye lot for safety, especially for sweaters.
- What needle material should I choose?
- Bamboo has a slight grip — great for slippery yarns and beginners. Metal is smooth and fast, ideal for experienced knitters and fine yarns. Wood sits in the middle: warm, light, and quiet. Try a few to see what feels right in your hands.
- How do I pick the right needle size?
- Start with the size listed in your pattern, then knit a gauge swatch. If you have too many stitches per 10 cm, go up a needle size; too few, go down. Needle size is the main lever for matching gauge.
- What type of needles do I need?
- Circulars work for almost everything — in-the-round and flat. Use DPNs or a long circular with Magic Loop for small tubes like socks and sleeves. Straight needles are fine for simple flat pieces like scarves.
- What circular needle length should I use?
- Match the cable length to your project circumference: 40 cm for hats and collars, 60–80 cm for sweater bodies, and 100–120 cm for blankets, shawls, or Magic Loop. Too long and the stitches stretch; too short and they bunch.
- Are interchangeable needle sets worth it?
- Yes if you knit often or in varied yarn weights. A good interchangeable set gives you many tip sizes and cable lengths in one case, saving money and storage space versus buying fixed circulars individually.
- Can I change needle size and still match the pattern?
- You can if your gauge swatch matches — but the fabric will change. A larger needle makes a looser, drapier fabric; a smaller one makes it denser and firmer. Always swatch when substituting sizes.
- How do US, metric and UK needle sizes compare?
- They do not align cleanly. A US 8 is 5 mm, but a US 4 is 3.5 mm, and UK sizes run differently again. Keep a conversion chart handy and trust millimetres when in doubt.